A couple of hours’ drive from Madrid, Campillo de Ranas has played a huge role in promoting same-sex marriage – and revived the fortunes of the ‘black villages’ of Guadalajara
To celebrate this significant milestone, our writer follows the flow of the artist’s inspiration, taking in sights that would have been familiar to the Old Master
As a new exhibition celebrating the portraits of Edvard Munch opens at London’s National Portrait Gallery, we take a trip to the artist’s home city in Norway